First Treatment Essences, Starting Treatment Essences, and More!
Are you curious about ferments in skincare? If you are a skincare addict like me, you’ve probably heard of products that contain ferments. However, if you’re new to the skincare game, all the terminology and variety of products, especially products with fermented ingredients, can be quite confusing. So, I’m going to try to keep it simple and give you some actionable advice if you are just starting to try skincare with ferments!
First of all, try to keep in mind the number one rule of skincare: YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). Your experience with these products might be different with mine. Some people with sensitive skin may not react well to ferments. Only you can know what works best for your skin! Personally, I have dry skin with mild rosacea and some hyperpigmentation. Previously, I had combination, acne-prone skin before I started using tretinoin, a prescription retinoid that has been clearing up my acne but also dries the crap out of my face. Check out this article to learn more about my skincare routine!
All about FTE’s
Have you heard the term FTE or First Treatment Essence before? This is a product category, that is generally made up of thin, watery products that are loaded with fermented ingredients (often Galactomyces or Saccharomyces). Although some FTE’s may go by other names such as Starting Treatment Essence, etc. But if it’s watery, and mainly made up of fermented ingredients, I consider it a FTE.
FTE’s should usually go onto your face first (that’s why they’re called FIRST Treatment Essences), right after you wash your face, and before you apply any other products like toners, moisturizers, etc. However, in my opinion, there is one exception to that rule, and that’s pH-dependent acids, such as BHAs and AHAs. If you are using these in your routine (Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, etc.), you should apply these first, wait 15-30 minutes, and then apply your FTE.
How to Choose an FTE
But which FTE is the best? Now this is a tricky question. In my experience, all the FTE’s I’ve tried seem to perform similarly on my skin. Some are slightly more hydrating that others, but in my mind, hydration is not the point of a FTE. Otherwise, they all seem to make my skin smoother, softer, and slightly brighter. They have not been a miracle cure for my acne, redness, or skin texture. I mainly like FTE’s because they make my face noticeably softer to the touch. I especially notice the difference when I stop using an FTE and my skin no longer feels as smooth. I’ve done this several times, and my skin always gets smoother when I start using an FTE again. Really, I just love the way they make my skin feel.
Thus, in my mind, the cheaper the FTE, the better. Although, just so you know I have not tried any particularly pricey FTE’s. The most expensive one I ever tried was about $50 (the Naruko Face Renewal Miracle Essence) and the cheapest was under $20 (From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence). To me, they performed about the same, so I will be sticking with cheaper FTE’s from now on, unless I am proven wrong and come across a FTE that truly works better than all the rest! Without further ado, here are some brief reviews of the four FTE’s that I’ve tried:
Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence Rose Edition (what I’m currently using)
This is a relatively inexpensive FTE. It also comes in an unscented version that is even cheaper. Personally, I rather like the rose scent and I was willing to pay a little more for the added Niacinamide in this version. Overall, I like this product, but even with the Niacinamide, I still don’t see any real difference between this product and other FTE’s that I’ve tried. Still, I like the price point, and if I didn’t already have other Niacinamide products in my routine, I might appreciate this a little more.
Rating: 4/5
Ingredients on Cosdna
Where to buy: YesStyle, Rose Rose Shop, Jolse
Naruko Face Renewal Miracle Essence
The most expensive FTE that I’ve tried. I read some amazing reviews of this product online and decided I had to try it despite it being at the higher end of my price range. Also, I’m obsessed with Naruko, an amazing Taiwanese Beauty brand (that also has awesome sheet masks). I liked this product, it did the same job as all FTE’s do for me, but I will probably not be repurchasing it due to the price.
Rating: 3/5
Ingredients on Cosdna
Where to buy: Naruko USA
From Nature Age Intense Treatment Essence
The cheapest FTE that I’ve tried. I couldn’t find a lot of information about the product online because it is far less popular than many of the other FTE’s out there. However, it felt, smelled, and performed as expected. My skin felt softer and was slightly brighter with constant use, just as with other FTE’s. Since this is the cheapest one I’ve seen, I will probably repurchase this one next.
Rating: 4/5
Ingredients on Cosdna
Where to buy: Rose Rose Shop
Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence (pre-renewal)
This is a classic, and the first FTE I ever tried. Known as a dupe for the more expensive cult-favorite, SK-II, I was intrigued by the miraculous results I had heard of online. When I first started using this product, I was very confused about how to use it and didn’t really think it was doing anything. But as soon as I stopped using it, my skin didn’t look or feel quite right. And then, when I resumed using it again, I noticed that my skin returned to its softer and brighter state. That’s when I first fell in love with FTE’s. Missha has since renewed this product in 2019 and also changed the name to Missha Time Revolution the First Treatment Essence Rx. Even though there are some cheaper options out there, this still comes at a decent price, and I’m excited to try to the newly updated version.
Rating: 4/5
Ingredients on Cosdna
Where to buy (new version): YesStyle, Rose Rose Shop, Jolse
Final Thoughts on FTE’s and Ferments
As you may have noticed, I would rate most of the FTE’s I’ve tried as a 4 out of 5. Even though I love this product category, I wouldn’t really consider any one of these products to be a holy grail for me. I love ferments in skincare and consider these products to be an essential part of my routine. However, none of these are miracle workers; they just provide good, reliable results. And when combined with other products and beneficial ingredients, I think an FTE can be a great boost to your skincare routine. Just stay realistic and don’t fall for any “miracle” claims out there.
In addition, there are many other products out there (besides FTE’s) that contain ferments! Here is a quick list of some of the ones that I’ve tried. Overall, I enjoyed all of these products and had no major issues with them. Yet, I just didn’t see the same results that I would see with an FTE. However, a lot of these products have other beneficial ingredients that I loved!
Other Products I’ve Tried with Fermented Ingredients:
- Kikumasamune High Moist Lotion
- Swanicoco Snail Care Fermentation Emulsion
- Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence
- Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Science Activator Ampoule (old version)
- Keana Rice Mask
- Skinfood Royal Honey Propolis Enrich Essence
Let me know if you are interested in knowing more about these products! Or if there are any other FTE’s or skincare with ferments that you’d like me to try?
